BOSCH TS1010 Table Saw Pusher/Scale For 4000 Table Saws

This same thing is sold under other brand names - bottom line, the design is flawed. The push angle and down-pressure is a great idea, but unfortunately the notch is a little too shallow, allowing the 'heel' to slip off the work as you push forward, making it more dangerous than no push stick at all! Mine went in the trash after the first cut almost put me into the blade. You don't need this - cut a good 'down-pressure' push stick out of scrap plywood or MDF. There are tons of patterns online.

Not having one is like seeing how close you can get your fingers to the grill of a hot oven without touching it. If you have a table saw, a pusher it an absolute must in many common situations. I like this model better than the long skinny types because this controls the piece with more stability. Better stability = safer. I particularly like this model because that little rubber tab keeps the pusher from sliding around (I did have one incident where an old pusher accidentally slid sideways into the rotating blade; I admit it was mostly my fault and could have been avoided. All that written junk on the side is just that, junk. Bosch make top quality tools but has a habit of adding more than you really need or want to them. If you need to find an angle or length, do it right and use the right tool. I haven't even bothered to check if all those angles were meant to be accurate with or without considering the bump on the bottom, I'm guessing without but the package doesn't tell you and I won't waste my time trying to figure it out.

I don't own this particular model, but a similar model. I ran across the poor rating on this and then learned that it was rated low because someone couldn't understand something as simple as a push stick..

Anyway, a push stick is a must for table saw safety. This style is the best available.

There are various angles built into it for quickly setting the blade's tilt. It also has a built in center finder for round stock. Simply place it over the end of the stock, draw a line, rotate the stock 90 degrees or so (it doesn't have to be exact) and draw another line. The intersection of the two is the exact center of the stock.

The red rubber pad at the front of the pusher is only used so that you apply a slight twist towards the fence to keep the stock flush with the fence when pushing past the blade. The small lip an inch or so from the back is what is used to actually push the stock. You only use a pusher like this when cutting the last foot or so of wood because you need the lip over the rear of the wood.

If this doesn't make sense, take a course in table saws. If you find this hard to use, you are doing something wrong..stop take lessons before hurting yourself. A table saw can kill you, so if you don't know what you are doing..STOP.

Like Christopher said, it's a mystery what all the different features are for on this tool. It is NOT a featherboard. It IS a push stick. It has a cute little rubber foot which is supposed to help grip (push) the material through the saw, but the rubber foot is too small and positioned too far back. It has a depth gauge to measure the saw blade height-- this is a good idea, but when I need an ACCURATE height,I use a tape or ruler instead. It also has angle gauges and a "center locator," but you need a little imagination to understand these. Bottom line, it's a good way to keep your hand up away from the saw blade.
Another point (from one who learned recently): Remember, always push the material BETWEEN the BLADE and the FENCE, and push it CLEAR PAST the blade. Many beginners push the material on the OUTSIDE of the fence, but this can cause binding!

I have'nt even used the tool yet. my review would be incomplete. I dont like the fact that my tool came with no paperwork. If I bought it at the local lumberyard I would have gotten the paperwork that tells all of the uses and makes using the tool easier